Tanzania, Zanzibar, and back home (in Zambia) for Christmas

What a wild adventure December has been.  There is no question this month has been the craziest, most exciting month of my life.  From Arusha, Tanzania to Cape Town, South Africa, I have enjoyed a wild ride.  

I am amazed at how the pieces of my adventure continually fall perfectly into place.  I have never been much of a planner, which seems to be a necessary skill when traveling through Africa.  My life has been organized and planned for the past 22 years, so traveling to Africa with a loose idea of what I wanted to do is exactly what was needed.  I have traveled through Africa by bus, purchased plane tickets the day of my flight, and continually changed travel plans.  This month has been the definition of "winging it," and I've enjoyed every second of it.  

When traveling from Zambia to Tanzania, most people would assume that flying would be the safest and most convenient option.  These people would be correct in making this assumption.  To the dismay of my mother, I had other plans.  Why not take the bus from Lusaka, Zambia to Arusha, Tanzania?  I can’t possibly be the only non-African that decided to bypass the airport, right?  Well, I was the only non-African that decided to bypass the airport.  When Fr. Kabwe, the president of CLCE, dropped me off at the bus terminal in Lusaka on a Friday afternoon, I quickly realized this journey would turn into a pretty good story.

Lusaka to the Zambia-Tanzania border:

My first bus had two seats on one side of the aisle and three seats on the other (about 75 person capacity).  I was seated in the middle of three seats for what turned out to be a 13 hour trip.  Almost immediately after leaving the bus terminal at 3pm (scheduled departure time of 2pm), the bus driver decided to give us a little excitement.  After a tight turn that resulted in the bus riding on two wheels for 2-3 seconds, we were on our way.  When traveling in Africa, I always seem to find myself seated next to some great people.  The older woman to my right was a Tanzanian, and she told me that her son would wait with me at the Dar es Salaam bus terminal until I was able to book a bus to Arusha.  This was a major relief, as we were schooled to arrive at 10pm, and the Arusha buses did not leave again until morning (unfortunately, we ended up getting separated and put on different buses at the border).  After driving through the night with almost no sleep, we arrived at the Tanzania border at 5:30am.

Zambia-Tanzania border:

Since I clearly stood out like a sore thumb, the bus company made sure somebody would be waiting for me to help with the border crossing.  What a blessing, because without their help, I would have never made it to my next bus.  I would like to call this immigration process controlled chaos, but there really wasn’t anything controlled about it.  We jogged from the bus to the Zambian Immigration Office, which took about ten minutes.  I filled out my departure forms, and filed into a line.  Men were in one line, while the much more civilized group of women created a separate line.  A mad rush to get to the front was followed by 45 minutes of pushing and inching closer to the office door.  We were told that the office would open at 6, so of course it opened at 6:45 (this is referred to as “Africa Time”).  When the door was finally opened, we could not get in because too many people were crowded around the entry.  Keep in mind, I am the only non-African taking part in this process.  Because of my friends, I was very close to the front of the line.  I finally made it inside and received my departure stamp.  This was followed by a surprisingly simple visa purchase on the Tanzania side.  The “bus station” on the Tanzania side is basically a busy village with a line of random buses.  I was taken to one of these random buses, had very bad luck with exchanging money, and found my seat.  I trusted the man who helped get me across the border, but in the rush and in my sleep-deprived state, I failed to recognize my losses until he was gone.  This was pointed out to me by another wonderful Tanzanian by the name of John.

Tanzania border to Dar es Salaam:

Thank God for John, because I would have had a major anxiety attack on this trip if I was alone.  We left the border at around 9am and immediately stopped to get fuel.  Another ten minutes and we were stopped at an auto repair shop.  20 minutes after that, the bus came to a rattling stop.  Uh-oh.  I’m smart enough to know that something was wrong, but the angry Swahili conversations between the bus crew and passengers left me out of the loop.  John would fill me in every once in a while, but he didn’t seem to know when, or if, we would continue.  After about an hour delay, we got back on the road, only to stop at the next town.  We were told that a small part would be repaired, and the bus would return in 30 minutes.  Well, from what I have learned about African time, we were in for a long layover.  My exact words to John: “I’d like to stick with you, if you don’t mind.”  He was more than willing to let me follow along.  We had lunch, relaxed, and waited for the bus to return.  4 hours later, we were informed that the bus company did not want to continue the trip.  After a few passengers made their way to the nearest police station, we were on our way.  Another five minutes passed, and we were stopped to change buses.  This was far from comforting, however, as the “new” bus had carpet on the ceiling that was popular in the 1970s.  After burning breaks brought us to the bottom of a steep decline, we again changed buses, this time with a group coming from Dar es Salaam.  We did not encounter any other problems on the rest of our journey, and arrived at the Dar es Salaam bus terminal at 9:30am, only 12.5 hours behind schedule.  While I was forced to spend a second night on a bus, this meant that I would not have to figure out lodging in Dar es Salaam.  

Dar es Salaam to Arusha:

The bus driver ran me to another bus that was leaving for Arusha, and after waiting to completely fill up, we left at 10:30am.  Dar es Salaam traffic, road construction, and only one bathroom break got us to Arusha at 9:30pm Sunday evening.  I was dehydrated, very smelly, and incredibly sleep deprived.  All was good, however, when Elly, my Kilimanjaro guide and good friend, met me as I stepped off the bus.  

This bus trip was incredibly inconvenient and very frustrating, but WOW what an experience!  Never again will I complain about bad roads back home.  I feel very silly for all the times I complained about our football and soccer trips to Torrington or Rawlins.  I came to Africa for new and exciting experiences, and that is exactly what this bus trip gave me.  Traveling by bus in Africa is something I will most likely never do again, but I will always cherish the experience.  

Wreck on the drive from Dar es Salaam to Arusha.

Enough of bus travel, onto the good stuff.  

I climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro with Elly in 2011, and he welcomed me into his home during my time in Arusha.  What a beautiful family he has!  Mama Derek (the name comes from their first born child) , Elly’s wife, has an English vocabulary of maybe 20 words, but always made me feel like I was part of the family.  Derek is 6 years old, and continually talked to me in Swahili as if I understood what he was saying (wow, kids love to talk!).  Jojo is 2 years old, and quite possibly has the best smile in the world.  Elly had a last minute climb booked while I was scheduled to stay with him, which gave me the opportunity to get to know his good friend Abas.  Abas, an assistant guide on Kilimanjaro, showed me around Arusha during the five days Elly was on the mountain.  From visiting the market to spending the afternoon chatting with a small group of his friends, we saw just about everything Arusha had to offer.  He welcomed me to his home for lunch one day, which was a major eye-opening experience.  Abas and his wife live in a one-room home that isn’t much bigger than their queen size bed.  The kids from next door came and sat next to me and wouldn’t let go of my arms.  I wasn’t sure what they were saying, but Abas informed me that they had never touched a Mzungu (white person) before.

On the 10th of December, I traveled to Kilimanjaro Airport to pick up Jordan Edgcomb, who has joined me in Africa..  From a morning hunt with the Hadzabe (one of the last hunter-gatherer tribes in Africa... please check out this article: http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2009/12/hadza/finkel-text) to lions in the Serengeti, we saw just about everything.  I'm sure you would rather look at pictures, so here are a few of my favorites from the safari.  Enjoy!

Celebrating the big 23 on safari! Dula (our cook), Douglas (head guide), me, and Noeli (douglas' cousin and guide-in-training)

Squirrel for lunch? Morning hunt with the Hadzabe tribe

Practicing with the Hadzabe (not really sure what I'm doing...)

Pundamilia (Zebra)

Duma (Cheetah)

Twiga (Giraffe)

Rock Agame Lizard

Black Rhino in Ngorongoro Crater

Kill of the Day

Me-ow

The King

After safari, Douglas, our safari guide and Jordan’s good friend (this was Jordan’s third safari with Douglas), invited us to his home.  Just like Elly, Douglas was an amazing host.  Bibi (grandma) and the rest of his family were extremely excited for us to visit, especially Jordan.  Douglas’ new-born baby shares a birthday with Jordan, and now he also shares his name!  Family means everything to the people here, and we truly felt at home.  I am constantly blown away by how welcoming our African friends are, and I hope I have the opportunity to welcome them into my home sometime in the future.

Douglas checking out Jordan's Quadcopter

Noeli, Jordan, myself, and Douglas after safari

Elly, Jojo, myself, Derek, and Momma Derek

It's always difficult to leave good friends, but the flight out of Arusha was made a little easier because we were headed to Zanzibar, an island paradise off the coast of Tanzania.  We spent time on the beach, went swimming with dolphins, ate at the night fish market in Stone Town, and enjoyed every second of our time in Zanzibar.  Again, I'll let my pictures do the talking.  

The Rock Restaurant.  Nathan Peck was here two years ago, and I was so glad to find it too!

Mr. Cheaper, he gives good prices

The view from our resort in Zanzibar, overlooking the Indian Ocean.  I don't hate it.

Our friend "Captain Jimmiy" at the night fish market in Stone Town, Zanzibar

After spending 23 days in Tanzania, it was time to return to Zambia.  Jordan and I were originally going to leave Zanzibar on the 20th, but we were having too much fun on that little island.  After booking two more nights, we found out plane tickets to Zambia were significantly cheaper on the 23rd.  We stayed a third extra night in Stone Town, and then finally made our way to the airport.  Zanzibar is a wonderful place to visit… until you have to leave.  Recent policy changes meant that the departure fee was NOT included in the airline ticket.  A little frustrating?  Sure.  This process was made much more difficult, however, by the fact that they did not accept credit cards, and the two ATMs at the airport were out of service.  We were forced to rush back into town to get enough cash to pay the $48 departure fee.  The fee ended up being about $55 after the . . . . very rude man decided he could change the exchange rate (not much we could do, had to catch our flight).  

My return visit to Zambia was very short, unfortunately, but well worth the stressful travel.  We landed in Lusaka at 11:30pm, where my good friend Sebby picked us up and had a bed waiting at a friend's house.  I don't think we would have made it to Charles Lwanga for Christmas had it not been for Sebby.  He brought us to the bus station, took care of our bus tickets, and made sure we got onto the bus safely.  I was just as disappointed as he was that we weren't able to spend more time in Lusaka.  I have made a lot of promises to return back to Zambia, so I keep saying "next time"!  We stopped off in a small town called Mazabuka, which is where my good friend Busiku lives.  I was originally supposed to spend a night with his family, but our delay in travel gave us only enough time for lunch.  Busiku's mother was very happy to have us as guests, and just like Sebby, was disappointed we couldn't stay longer.  Next time!  Busiku offered to take us the rest of the way, so we made it to Charles Lwanga at around 4:00pm on the 24th of December.  Two nights and one day gave me just enough time to say hello and goodbye to all the great people I had the pleasure of getting to know over the past few months.  Like I have said time and time again, I have no choice but to return to Zambia sometime soon.  If I couldn't spend Christmas at home in Wyoming, I think my home in Zambia is definitely the next best place. to be.  Another short stopover in Livingstone allowed for Jordan and I to spend a night with John Mwamba's family.  John is another good friend of mine from Charles Lwanga (he just completed his studies December 13th).  He was a great tour guide, and even managed to get us the local rate at Victoria Falls ($1 entrance fee instead of the $20 tourist fee).  His mindset describes exactly how welcoming and loving all of our African friends have been.  He said that it was a blessing to have Jordan and I as guests in his home.  I really hope I have the opportunity to share my home with these great people sometime in the future.  

Busiku (to my right) and his family on Christmas Eve

John and I at Victoria Falls

This blog turned out to be very difficult to write.  Describing the relationships you make and the impact people have on you can be very difficult to put into words.

I arrived in Cape Town, South Africa on December 27th.  I'm too busy enjoying my time here, so the rest of this African adventure will come in my final blog.  The plan is to fly home from Johannesburg January 8th, and be back in Buffalo on the 10th.  See you then!  

Chabota

joshdube6@gmail.com

Leaving Charles Lwanga

I apologize for any errors, but this is a rush job.  I'm leaving this morning (29 November) for Lusaka, on my way to Tanzania!  Everything always seems to be rushed when you're trying to leave.  

Yesterday evening, I told Mrs. Daka I would be leaving for Lusaka in the morning, but I wasn't sure what time.  This morning, I was up at 5:30 to meet Mr. Chulu, the Vice Principal, before he leaves campus.  There was some banging around in the kitchen, and I went to investigate.  Mrs. Daka was there with a pot full of vegetables and chicken.  Not sure what she was up to, I greeted her and mentioned again that I would be leaving sometime this morning.  "I have to feed you before you leave!"  Up at 5:30 to cook me a full meal before I set off for Tanzania, I almost started crying on the spot.  It will be difficult leaving my friends, but leaving my mother is entirely different.  Thankfully I will see her, along with the rest of the CLCE staff, when I'm back here for Christmas on my way to South Africa.  Even then, leaving Africa won't be all bad.  I have a community of friends and family that I will be spending the spring with in Buffalo!

What makes a location feel like home?  I would say that home is a place where you feel comfortable, have spent a significant amount of time and are surrounded by friends and family who love and care for you.  By this definition, I have three homes.  Spokane, Wa, which will slowly become less of a home (I will still have professors who will be lifelong friends, but my peers will leave and campus will change… it already has!).  Buffalo, Wy, which will always be home, no matter how long I stay away.  The beauty of Buffalo is that I will never be away for long because I love my home and the people in it too much.  The same stands true for my third home, Charles Lwanga College of Education.  After my previous visit in 2011, I figured that it was a likelihood I would return for a second visit.  After my time here over the past 2.5 months, I know that a return trip is a certainty. 

What will I miss the most?  I suppose there are a few things that will be difficult to leave behind.  Watching football in the assembly hall with a large group of rowdy and passionate students (or at Aubrey's house when I want some quiet time).  Playing football on a dirt field covered with holes surrounded by people with shoes in poor condition, or no shoes at all (in all fairness, my cleats have been falling apart for the past 2 years…).  Buying two or three fritters on my way to 10:30 tea break every day during the week (nobody comes with only one fritter, you can't share one…).  Dragging myself out of bed for 6:15am mass 2-3 times per week (everyday was out of the question).  Greeting Mr. Mooka in the morning with a pound and a big smile.  Relaxing on the steps of the campus store with the ladies for an hour or two almost every day.  Discussing traveling and movies with Chrispin over a few beers at the Yellow House (my attempts at keeping pace with the big man have brought about a few difficult mornings).  Grilling every time we drank at the Yellow House so we wouldn't get drunk or be hungover for work the following day.  Walking to Mundali (a small village 10 minutes away) for dinner with Suyi and Busiku., which happened more often in the past month when I was tired of cooking (not a bad thing, though, as dinner for the three of us cost about $4).  Being treated like family during my time here..  I did not feel like a tourist, but rather a part of the Charles Lwanga community.  Constantly being tested by the guys in the kitchen, who would only greet me in Tonga.  And finally, making a large group of close friends that I will be in contact with for the rest of my life.  I brought a few shirts and various items to leave as gifts, but I'm in a tough spot now.  Too many good friends… ahh, the troubles of living in Zambia.  Suyi, Joseph, John, Busiku, Amos, Dexter, and too many others to list.    Saying goodbye is incredibly difficult, which is why I always say see you later.  Those aren't just empty words, but rather a promise to return to my home in Zambia.  

Thanksgiving meal: Nshima, beans and .... sardines!  AHH!  Last meal with the students, wouldn't have it any other way

Saying goodbye to the chess players

Sometimes a pair of ripped 4-year-old cleats is cherished more than you could imagine.  My good friend John sporting his new boots.

My brothers at Muzei Hostel

I accomplished a few things while I was here.  I taught a world geography class to second year students for four weeks, which was a great learning opportunity for me.  Teaching students that are the same age as me, from a completely different culture, and without the aid of technology, was a great challenge.  My lessons focused on utilizing strategies that my students would be able to take away and use in their own classrooms later on.  If they are able to take away one or two strategies or ideas, then my work was definitely a success.  Learning and teaching from a different perspective and in a different culture is important, and this experience will help me as a prepare for my job search this spring.
I was the communication connection between Gonzaga and Charles Lwanga for the tennis program that is being formed.  While we did not break ground on building the courts, we have laid the foundation for a program that will hopefully revolutionize life in this rural area of Zambia.  Not only will students be able to learn a new sport, but they will utilize their skills as teachers to work with children in a sports program that focuses on English skills.  A program of this nature, which is not seen in most parts of Zambia, will hopefully create a hub for tennis players in the most unlikely of places.
Just recently, Fr. Kabwe, the president of CLCE, and I have been working on formulating a post-graduate assessment of former CLCE students in the field.  This assessment will determine their effectiveness as teachers, and will help CLCE alter and improve its program through the understanding how of graduates of the college are fairing in their current teaching positions.  While I am not qualified to create an assessment like this, we have been in contact with the Gonzaga School of Education, which will partner with CLCE to help formulate this groundbreaking assessment.
The final piece of my work involved a Friday afternoon literacy program (check out the description in previous blogs) and the Gonzaga resource library on campus.  Between the efforts of Charles Lwanga and our connection with Gonzaga, the literacy levels of children in this area should slowly improve in the future, and will hopefully become a bright spot in a country that is currently struggling with the literacy levels of its children.  The Gonzaga resource area includes pencils, crayons, white boards, books, and other learning tools that help aid students in working with young learners.  My job has been to take inventory of what resource we have, organize the existing materials, and attempt to create a plan to replenish consumable materials and add to what we already have.  

One of the four classes I was able to teach

When preparing to leave, I told Mr. Chulu, the Vice Principal, that I could take a bus to Lusaka and find a hostel before I head to Tanzania.  I didn't want CLCE to feel obligated to give me transport or lodging in Lusaka.  Well, that's not how things work around here.  Mr. Chulu informed me that while I'm still in Zambia, I will be under the care of Charles Lwanga.  Fr. Kabwe will be giving me a lift to Lusaka.  I will spend a night at St. Ignatius (I love the Jesuits) in Lusaka before traveling by bus to Tanzania.  

My next journey will take me to Arusha where I will spend a week with Elly, my guide on Kilimanjaro in 2011.  Jordan Edgcomb will arrive on December 7th, and then the exploring will commence.  Our itinerary includes: a safari on the Serengeti, relaxing on the beaches of Zanzibar, Christmas at Charles Lwanga, water works at Victoria Falls, New Years in Cape Town, a trip down the "Garden Route" (southern coast of Africa), and any other adventures that cross our path before returning home in January.  I will have plenty of pictures to share in my next blog post.  I hope you enjoyed, because I surely did!

Until next time,

Chabota

joshdube6@gmail.com

Somebody let me drive... on the wrong side of the car and the wrong side of the road!

Baobab Tree  

THAT is a fat tree

Beers at Manyeke Lake in Lochinvar National Park

Traveling, Teaching, and Football Madness

Tonight, I invited Chrispin, my good friend and IT guy at CLCE, to the Yellow House (the local watering hole).  As usual, I had a few more beer than expected, so this turned into a tipsy Tuesday night.  Good night, and I hope you enjoy this blog!

Mrs. Daka

I have decided to dedicate a portion of this blog entry to my interactions with Mrs. Daka.  If you haven’t been following my entries, Mrs. Daka runs the store, works in the kitchen, cooks for guests, and does just about everything else short of teaching.  I am her American son and often visit her and two other ladies at the campus store in the afternoons.  We chat and have a soft drink, which makes for a relaxing afternoon.  

Mrs. Daka was in the guesthouse preparing lunch for some guests from the University of Zambia when she heard me whistling.  Taking on her motherly role, she informed me of a little piece of Tonga tradition.  When a child is heard whistling, his parents know he is ready to be married.  They will then begin looking for a partner for their son.  Tradition has changed and that way of life is not the norm anymore, but I might be more careful about the time and place in which I whistle…

Mrs. Daka has told me that I am a very hard worker and a good help cleaning up.  Initially, my motivation to clean was too keep her happy (she tends to pop into the guest house at unexpected times).  After a few weeks, I have transformed into more of a neat and tidy person.  This is partially out of respect for the college and Mrs. Daka, as well as realizing that failing to keep your living space clean is just silly.  My mom and roommates can attest to my traditionally messy room.  Better late then never, I suppose!

Football

I was fortunate enough to be invited into the Charles Lwanga football squad for their game at home against nearby Lusangu University.  I went into the game with 20 minutes left, which gave me plenty of time to get a feel for the environment surrounding us.  Lusangu had as many fans as Charles Lwanga did, which created an absolutely insane atmosphere.  After every goal (in a game that saw six), fans and players rushed the field in celebration.  I witnessed the Lusangu supporters create the longest canoe celebration I have ever seen…. twice (fans and players sit in a line and row their imaginary oars… Bison soccer players from the class of ‘09 will understand this celebration…).  The Charles Lwanga supporters gave me a wonderful ovation as I entered the pitch as the number seven (right wing/forward).  Unfortunately for me, I had been sitting for an hour and hadn’t touched a ball in three days (we didn’t have a ball for warm-ups).  Because of this, along with the uneven dirt surface of the field, my first attempt at a cross ended with minimal contact on the ball and me lying on my back.  Ouch.  I slowly became more comfortable, and with around ten minutes remaining, I put home a ball that was played across the face of the goal from the opposite wing.  Cue mass chaos and panic.  Fans rushed the field, picked me up, and we celebrated for what seemed like ten minutes.  I have been involved in some big moments and scored important goals in my high school soccer career, but the passion and excitement I experienced in that moment stands above everything else.  In that same moment, I also became a bitter enemy of Lusangu supporters.  The game was running into nightfall and they thought my finish had actually gone through the net on the wrong side of the goalpost.  The shot came from a tight angle near the end line, but it was a goal.  Near-riot conditions ensued over the next ten minutes.  I’m still not sure if they thought the goal should have been disallowed, or they were angry because a Mzungu (white-man) had scored… :)  Lusangu equalized in the final five minutes, but a 3-3 draw seemed like a good note to send everyone home on. 

The next time I played, my ankle decided it was time I took a little break.  There are holes and mounds all over the field, and as I was turning to make a run up the sideline, my foot found one.  When I informed some lecturers of what happened, they thought I was crazy for not going to the clinic.  A trip to the clinic here would maybe cost 5 Kwacha ($1), whereas a check-up back home would probably cost about $50.  

Our game against Lusangu University

Zambian Life

The rain has arrived!  There has only been about three rain storms, but that's a welcome change from the six weeks of dry heat I experienced through September and October.  I should invest in an umbrella because when it rains it pours.  I also need to be more aware of the weather when I put my clothes on the line.  Whoops.    

Animals I encounter while walking around campus: Pigs, goats, donkeys, cows, dogs, frogs, and scorpions (one almost ran right over my toes… I was not amused). 

What I’m thankful has not crossed my path yet: Cobra. 

In my previous blog, I mentioned that an appreciation for what the local people cherish in life is necessary.  Not only do I value the Zambian way of life, but I have also been trying to do the little things to “fit in.”  

1.) I know you won’t believe this, mom, but I have been doing some laundry by hand (underwear, socks, shorts).  Now let’s not get carried away, as I have only done this a HANDful (get it??) of times.  I still give my pants, shirts and towels to the washing machine because it needs some love, too. 

2.) My head has been seen on the pillow past 8am maybe once since I have been here.  People get up early, even on the weekends.  As I was walking to 7am mass last Saturday, I saw students cleaning, washing, and playing chess.  This is far from the lazy, headache-filled weekend mornings I (sometimes) experienced at Gonzaga. 

3.) I have been seen walking around with a bag of Masuku, a local fruit that is readily available this time of the year.  One student came up to me and asked if I liked this Zambian fruit.  He mentioned that he, as well as other students, appreciate that I am trying new things and enjoying what Zambia has to offer.  Well, Masuku is really tasty, and a bag of 25-30 cost 1 Kwacha (about 20 cents).  Seems like a no-brainer to me!  I also usually buy a fritter or two (1 Kwacha for 2) on my way to 10:30 tea break during the week.  Masuku and the fritters can be purchased by local ladies who set up shop (a basket) by the classroom buildings.  When I’m lucky, there will be mini-bananas as well (about 8 for 2 Kwacha).  Another local delicacy is Inswa, which are a member of the termite family.  They come out in swarms with the first rains, and locals take advantage.  Buckets of Inswa are collected, their wings taken off, and are then fried.  They're not too bad with salt (once you get over the fact that you're eating insects…).  

Masuku, a local fruit
 

Inswa, a member of the termite family

 4.) When visiting Livingstone this past weekend (more on that trip below), I was given two tailor-made Zambian shirts.  I had become quite jealous of the sweet shirts many of the lecturers sport, and now I have something to wear.  Mr. Mooka also took me to a tailor near Charles Lwanga, so I will have at least three shirts before leaving.  I look forward to continuing this fashion trend back home!

Teaching

As I have mentioned before, teaching the second year college students at CLCE has been a great experience.  I have made some mistakes, and definitely would change up some aspects of my lessons, but that is what teaching is about.  I am constantly improving, and teaching in a foreign culture definitely speeds up the learning process.  You really have to be on your game if a lesson is going to be successful..  If I talk too fast or use words/phrases that are not commonly heard here, my students will be lost.  My final week of teaching involved students presenting information on climate types.  Just like any group of learners, I had some students who did an outstanding job, and some who really disappointed.  Either way, I am hopeful that my students were able to take away something from my lessons.  I utilized some teaching strategies that will definitely be useful when they are teaching geography in the future.  

I have really enjoyed being in an environment that is completely focused on the profession of teaching.  College students back home could learn a thing or two from the professionalism displayed at Charles Lwanga.  Students always look nice (you won't see any shorts, hoodies or sweatpants in class), and they are very serious about studying.  Suyi, one of my good friends, has a ridiculous schedule.  He goes to bed around 11pm and wakes up to study with a small group at around 3am.  He then rests a little before classes start at 7:30am.  I can't even stay up to watch a full Barcelona football match (game time is usually 9:45pm), and waking up for mass at 6am is a struggle (I miss one or two every week…).  

Most students are very passionate about the profession of teaching.  A lot of people here don't really understand why teachers in America aren't respected like they are in many other countries around the world.  I had a nice conversation with Suyi last week, and he mentioned that “a person who does not respect a teacher fails to reason.  If you want to become a doctor or a president, you have to pass through the hands of a teacher.”  Seems simple enough to me.  Education truly is the foundation of society.  

Two of my students presenting information on the desert climate (with my sketched map on the board... not too bad!)

A group of first year students

Traveling

I was given the opportunity to travel to Livingstone this past weekend (8-10 November).  CLCE decided to treat Katy (the student from Seattle University) and I to a weekend adventure in the tourist capital of Zambia.  I must admit, being around so many Mzungus (white people) felt a little weird.  We visited the crocodile farms, saw some big cats, went on a game drive, visited Victoria Falls, and enjoyed a sunset cruise on the Zambezi River.  What a great experience!  Our host, Mrs. Sitali (a lecturer at CLCE), was amazing and showed us everything Livingstone has to offer.  I especially enjoyed our trip to the market, which is a massive collection of shops covered in tarps.  You can find just about anything at the market, and I was amazed to find my way back to the bus after meandering through the countless pathways that seem to have no clear direction or end.  This market is definitely not a tourist area, but I really did feel comfortable being the only white person in sight.  Don't get me wrong, I do like white people (is that inappropriate to say?...).  I met some really nice people on our Zambezi sunset cruise.  I had some good conversations with people from Senegal, Norway, Switzerland, and of course, Zambia.  I will hopefully meet up again with the man from Switzerland, who is doing work in Kafue (close to the capital, Lusaka).  I love traveling, because it gives you the opportunity to connect with people from all over the world.  I can only imagine the connections I will make while traveling through Tanzania, Zambia, and South Africa in December and January. 

Now I'll let the pictures do the talking.

Victoria Falls (There is water falling on the Zimbabwe side, but all of this will be falls in a month or two)

The bridge between Zambia and Zimbabwe (also, where you can bungee jump)

Making faces with Agnes, Mrs. Sitali's niece

Mrs. Sitali, our host in Livingstone

The Sunset, aka "Booze," Cruise

Sunset over the Zambezi River 

Checking on the big cats, who are enclosed at this particular location
 (you can actually take a Cheetah for a walk on a leash...)

The King

I have less than three weeks left at Charles Lwanga, and will be busy finishing up work on the tennis program, literacy program, and a possible post-grad teacher assessment that is just formulating.  Meeting with lecturers and other staff members to work on programs is difficult (everybody is always very busy, especially with finals just around the corner), so hopefully we will be able to make progress over the next few weeks.  I will have a full update of the work I was able to complete the next time you hear from me. 

I hope you enjoyed, and feedback is always appreciated!

Chabota

joshdube6@gmail.com

Zambian culture and other random thoughts

I apologize if my blog entries are scattered and unorganized.  I write and update my reflections throughout the week, and new ideas or thoughts constantly find their way onto my fingertips.  Enjoy! 

The Zambian culture may be new and unique to what I have known growing up, but there are three major aspects of life that seem to cross all borders.  Family, religion, and sports (especially with men) are the topics in which most conversations begin.  Everybody is very passionate about family, while most are passionate about religion and sports.  In order to assimilate into a new culture, you need to appreciate and take an interest in what the local people enjoy in life.  The fact that we share so many important interests has made me realize that our differences are not as extensive as I once thought.  This becomes strikingly clear when I attend a wedding celebration, celebrate daily mass, or play in a football match with the students. 

Mrs. Daka, my Zambian mother.

Watching the English Premiere League on a Sunday afternoon.

Sometimes the kitchen light doesn't turn on...

I want to give a quick shout-out to my family.  I have been blessed with some amazing opportunities in life, and none of it would have been possible without the guidance and support of my family.  Family is not limited to blood relatives, however.  The support of my friends, professors, and mentors has given me the tools necessary to succeed and move forward in life. 

I have tried describing the “college” culture at Charles Lwanga to a few people, but doing so is no easy task.  This environment is so different from any college or university environment in the United States.  If the 6am church bells fail to call my attention, then the music and conversation from the surrounding hostels (dorms) a short time later surely will.  Students have one option for breakfast, lunch and dinner.  There is a specific time during the week in which they are required to clean and maintain the college grounds.  A class has even been assigned to break up and remove the concrete from an old tennis court.  All laundry is done by hand.  Students congregate around the single TV on campus to watch football on the weekends.  Assemblies include cultural dancing and skits prepared by different classes.  There was a course that taught students how to make sausage.  Why would teachers need to learn how to make sausage?  Fr. Kabwe, the president, told me that CLCE wants to give students every opportunity to succeed, even if they change their career goals later in life.  This skill might enable them to open a restaurant if teaching doesn’t work out.  The unique features of CLCE do not end here, but if you really want to understand this amazing culture, come visit. 

Cultural dances at a CLCE assembly

I have learned some interesting cultural aspects of Zambian life.  Here's a short list:  

1.) My friends Emmanuel and Xavier were shocked to hear that when getting married in America, the groom does NOT have to pay the bride's family.  In Zambian culture, the groom has traditionally been required to pay the bride's family in cattle, tools, and other equipment (although money is the payment of choice now).  Things seem to even out after spending a small fortune on a ring, however.  

2.) When you ask somebody to have a drink, you are expected to pick up the tab.  Chrispin, one of my good friends who is a staff member at CLCE, informed me of this after he invited me to the Yellow House for some beers.  He told the story of a visitor who made the mistake of inviting a large group out for drinks, only to be shocked when learning of this small detail.  

3.)  Zambians eat with their hands.  Nshima, which is a thick porridge made from ground maize flour, is a staple in Zambia.  Nshima, which is very bland, is never eaten alone.  There are always at least two "relishes" (meat/poultry/fish and a vegetable).  The thick and sticky Nshima is rolled up and formed in your hand, and then eaten with the relishes.  

4.)  Soda is not soda.  After a long walk with a couple friends, I desperately needed a drink.  I asked Emmanuel if I could borrow 3 Kwacha for a soda.  He went up to a small stand and came back, informing me that they had none.  I was a little confused, as I saw a cooler with various types of soda on top.  After a short conversation, I realized we were talking about two different things.  "Soda" means baking soda, and I was actually looking for a "softy."  Next time I'll ask for a Coke.  

5.)  When someone calls you fat, they are not insulting you.  Having a little extra weight is a good thing, while being skinny is a no-no.  This is basically the opposite of the body image perception most Americans have.  

6.)  Soccer is played a little differently when the field is mostly dirt, and maneuvering around small holes and mounds becomes an art-form.

7.)  The pool balls, table, and pockets are smaller.  These differences are difficult to get used to, but still fun to play over a few beers at the Yellow House.

Pool tournament at the Yellow House  

8.)  Expect a unique style of handshake when greeting a Zambian.  The three-part handshake includes clasping hands, letting go and forming almost a butterfly shape by interlocking your thumbs, and then back to a hand clasp.  As a conversation forms, continuing to hold hands is not uncommon.  

9.)  Everybody (or at least the majority of people) sings the national anthem.  The choir leads at assemblies, but students and staff join in the singing.  This beautiful anthem, when performed by a group, creates a very uplifting atmosphere.

Mrs. Daka told me to come to her when I needed vegetables.  I asked for cabbage and tomatoes, and she questioned how I was going to prepare them.  Well Mrs. Daka…. I really don’t know.  “Chabota! Go get your pork chops, we’ll prepare them here.”  She proceeded to help me prepare my meal, which really means she did all the work and I added a little salt when told to.  While this was happening, a lecturer invited me to join her in eating Nshima, cabbage, and beans.  I ate dinner while my dinner was being prepared.  These ladies sure are taking great care of me. 

One reason I love traveling is because of my willingness to try new things.  This isn’t always good practice, however.  My stomach wasn’t right for a week following a small bout of food poisoning.  I might be staying away from fish for a while. 

This past week I had the opportunity to go into the Bat-Cave as Joshua, and come out as Mr. Dube (still sounds weird).  That’s right Sacajawea Middle School 8^th graders (my student teaching placement in Spokane), I’m back in action.  For the next few weeks, I will be teaching a World Geography course to second year students at CLCE.  I have four sections per week, and the content includes continents and physical features, climatic and natural regions, farming regions, and major crops.

My first week of teaching was very interesting.  Not bad (very positive and entertaining, in fact), just an entirely new experience.  Initially, I had a difficult time getting a read on my students.  This is probably because I am teaching my peers, which is a much different experience than teaching 8^th graders.  Not only are these students the same age as I am, but they also have a completely different background and perspective on the world.  This will be helpful next week when I teach African geography, as my students will teach me.  Also, I am not using any sort of technology (I had my computer because I didn’t want to print my lesson plan).  Two of the lecturers in in my department asked if I would like to use a projector for presentations.  After initially thinking “duh!” I realized this would only be beneficial for me.  These students will not be able to use any sort of technology when they hit the classroom, so my teaching practice should reflect that.  This is a huge difference in teaching that has a major impact on how I give my lessons.  I don’t have the ability to show an interesting picture or video of that mountain range.  I actually have to write out the bar graph that I was discussing.  These might seem like minor differences, but they add a whole new element to the world of teaching.  I have a great deal of respect for my Zambian peers who are teaching or training to teach.  Technology is a very helpful and necessary piece of education back home, but teachers often use it as a crutch to lean on (myself included).  I am enjoying the challenge of finding creative ways to teach without that first-world aid.  Teaching is a lot of fun, and I remember that every time I step into the classroom.  

  

As I mentioned before, there is a Friday afternoon literacy program at CLCE.  Learners from the surrounding basic schools come to work on reading and English skills with their college mentors.  The college is really focused on improving this program by tracking the progress of the learners.  As each Friday program happens, I am able to make observations and formulate ideas for change/improvement.  With the help of a Gonzaga professor back home, we will hopefully be able to implement some positive changes.  Like I have stated previously, CLCE was already in the process of changing the way this program is run.  My job is to use my resources and perspective to provide insight on changes that could benefit this reading program.  We will have a meeting in early November, so hopefully some progressive ideas will be shared and eventually implemented.  

As for the tennis program, a contractor should be hired soon and the court will hopefully be completed before this term ends in December.  

This year I had the opportunity to celebrate Independence Day in two countries.  Zambia gained their independence from the United Kingdom on October 24th, 1964.  Happy 49th birthday, Zambia!  One Zambia, One Nation.  

Dr. James Hunter, a professor from Gonzaga University, is at CLCE this week (Oct. 21-25) teaching a Second Language Learning course to lecturers who are completing their masters.  I have had a wonderful time getting to know James, and I've even had the privilege of attending his classes.  I'm very proud of the connection that Gonzaga has with CLCE, and the GU professors that have been fortunate enough to visit Zambia truly are the best in the business.  

Until next time,

Chabota

joshdube6@gmail.com